How To Repair Cylinders That Tighten Track On International 175 Track Loader

Hello, I've got a 1975 IH 175C that needs to have a rails split to replace the seals for the rails adjuster. This has the pinned master link non the alligator style. Likewise there are no retaining pins in this master link.
I've been told it's probable the pivot will be ruined as it comes out and I should have a new one on manus; however, I'm not having any luck finding a new or aftermarket replacement.

I'm going to go assist from a buddy who was a former Deere construction mechanic. We practice not have a track press and it'll be the heat and crush process which he said may likely turn into torching the pin out.

Those who have experience with this, do you have whatsoever suggestions on replacing the pin with something from a different model that will fit? Or suggestions on making sure it isn't damaged? The guys at Blueish Ridge tractor parts said a machine shop could but build a new pin but this volition get out the machine downward for awhile and I'd like it to be a quick job.

Thanks

Also, if a new pin does need to be machined, what blazon of steel should information technology be made out of?
wrwtexan Senior Fellow member

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Here is an option that has worked for me on several machines lacking a primary link. Both sides of my TD20B accept this and makes for a depression habiliment in outer panel and easily removable primary pin. I pushed them out and polished them to a slip fit. Leave the bolt loose With a lock or double nut for move equally welding or difficult secured will intermission.

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John C. Senior Member

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I don't know who's tracks are on it merely we used to knock them out all the time with a rose budd and a sixteen pound hammer. They are nowhere near as type equally a Cat make master link. You do need a proficient migrate pivot and someone to hold it while it is existence slammed. Nosotros used to weld a chuck of cable to the pin to reduce the shock on our hands from a mis-hit.

DMiller and Vetech63 similar this.
Or yous could just cut the links vertically through the stud between the pins.
Sounds redneck, I know, but I've washed it plenty of times on tractors up to HD16 size and never had a trouble.
To rejoin, vee off the ends, bolt the rail plate back on to realign and weld upwards.
Saves all the drama with loose master pins.
I haven't had a primary pin all the same that I haven't been able to match up at an aftermarket undercarriage joint. I quit heating and beating on a $xx pin years agone. I accident both ends out about an inch deep and knock them out with a four lb hammer and a migrate punch. Takes less than 5 minutes in well-nigh cases.
Thank you guys!
Too what are your opinions on blocking the idler out to the tensioned position with some sort of steel welded in at that place for a brusque term (May turn into a long term set)?
The pictures are to see the sagged side vs the tensioned side.
John C. Senior Member

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First, it's not worth the adventure of damage to the internal parts of the last drives. Second, information technology's not a large chore to reseal the track adjuster cylinders.

Tinkerer and DMiller similar this.
Finding someone with a pivot press to have Unpin your rails is a better pick, if really take to destroy that pivot detect a used set of track and cut the ears away from track pins and then accept a machine shop machine/grind them to Master Pin dimension as to employ conventional steels is asking for a soft pin to fail.
Bls repair Senior Member

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Something similar this may exist useful
Going to accept to use equally a pin punch and hit information technology with something more than substantial. Took my own crawler master pins out, took some pick words and effort on a 20 pound sledge, welded a guide under a runway shoe to the link for a drift pin and set to flailing it like a b*****d step kid.
If recollect may end up performing again, there are some pin drive fix ups for Sledge that work better than what I had, ordinarily clench into link and on shoe with the drift Captured and maintained in a gear up to flail position. WTC makes the one I have seen used.

https://world wide web.wtcmachinery.com/produc...able-rails-presses/hfpp-hands-free-pin-pusher
Tones Senior Member

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Earlier you carve up the track measure out the concatenation wear. Worn out tracks tin can cause the the adjuster ram to over extend then the seal fails. If the chains are worn remove a link when you lot dissever the track and then rejoin. Existence conscientious about the style you become about information technology you should proceeds one pin.
Cheers for all the reply's guys! We'll try to become it out with heating and beating first. If that doesn't work I'll look into a track press. I went to high schoolhouse with some other guy who is a local True cat mechanic who may be able to over some assistance.
The guy who has offered to help has a TD-15C that he replaced the track/sprockets on but his were alligator style masters. We'll try to measure the length somehow. I did try pumping it upward 6 months agone or so but it just slowly went back in. Just it didn't look crazy stretched or pushed out..

That pin punch hammer looks keen except I may desire to take my hands farther away from the action!
Bls repair Senior Member

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DMiller and CFrank90 like this.
I rebuilt a tensioner terminal year on my 1973 175C without splitting the track. We released the pressure on the adjuster, pushed the idler back to fully retracted position, blocked up one side of the machine, and batty the track concatenation past running it forward and prying it off the idler with a earthworks iron. Reversed the process to reinstall.

DMiller and Tags like this.
I hold with Tones for checking track concatenation for habiliment.
Your pic of the practiced side shows the idler at virtually the stop of its travel.
If everything else is pretty good- shortening by a link will get you a few more miles.
John C. Senior Member

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The idler back up blocks are not touching the cease plates yet so yous likely won't be able to pull a link. You can pull those plates as the ends of the track frames and run until the front cease of the support block sticks out about a half an inch. Then you can pull a link.
If information technology is International Harvester track rut the pivot boss to red hot on both sides with a rose bud then merely knock the pin out. If it is some other manufacturer yous will probable have better luck burning the pin and getting a new one to reinstall. You are ameliorate off that manner anyway because the master pins are the simply back up on the chain on that link. They wear like crazy. On the rest of the links the bushings lock into the mating link and help support the chain.
Tones Senior Fellow member

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It'southward the first time I have seen the R/H side track ( dam puter) To me that sprocket looks ameliorate than 75% worn so delight refer back to my before mail.

DMiller and John C. similar this.
Bls repair Senior Member

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Tin't shave with information technology yet